Panajachel

Margarita in 2009

Margarita in 2011

It's amazing how energized I feel to be back in Guatemala. Today I spent 10 hours in a van from San Cristobal to Panajachel. Here, dining at Chinitas the usual stream of vendors honed in on us. Two girls from Chichicastenango were among them. There was something really special about one of them, and then it dawned on me -- I took a photo of her nearly 2 years ago. They stayed around our table for the whole meal, trying to sell little dolls but obviously enjoying all the attention our group showered on them. I told her I had taken her picture before and she didn't believe me, so I went back to the hotel to get the laptop. I knew exactly where the photo was because it was the last one I took in Guatemala in 2009. She beamed when she saw her picture, and the two sisters, together with 29 year-old Lucia, enthusiastically looked at other photos I had taken that year. They were especially interested to see my ahijada Irma. "She's your daughter?" "No, my ahijada. She doesn't have a father, so I'm kind of a father to her." Lucia said, "They don't have a father. Or a mother. They are widows." "Orphans, you mean. I don't believe you. They are well taken care of." "No, it's true," said 14 year-old Cristina, smiling, but somehow somber at the same time.

Palma, one of the group, bought a plate of beans and rice for the three, and they let me photograph them. Last time Margarita wanted me to pay her to take her picture. This time, she just smiled for the camera.