Sunday, March 20, 2011

Panajachel


Margarita in 2009

Margarita in 2011


It's amazing how energized I feel to be back in Guatemala. Today I spent 10 hours in a van from San Cristobal to Panajachel. Here, dining at Chinitas the usual stream of vendors honed in on us. Two girls from Chichicastenango were among them. There was something really special about one of them, and then it dawned on me -- I took a photo of her nearly 2 years ago. They stayed around our table for the whole meal, trying to sell little dolls but obviously enjoying all the attention our group showered on them. I told her I had taken her picture before and she didn't believe me, so I went back to the hotel to get the laptop. I knew exactly where the photo was because it was the last one I took in Guatemala in 2009. She beamed when she saw her picture, and the two sisters, together with 29 year-old Lucia, enthusiastically looked at other photos I had taken that year. They were especially interested to see my ahijada Irma. "She's your daughter?" "No, my ahijada. She doesn't have a father, so I'm kind of a father to her." Lucia said, "They don't have a father. Or a mother. They are widows." "Orphans, you mean. I don't believe you. They are well taken care of." "No, it's true," said 14 year-old Cristina, smiling, but somehow somber at the same time.

Palma, one of the group, bought a plate of beans and rice for the three, and they let me photograph them. Last time Margarita wanted me to pay her to take her picture. This time, she just smiled for the camera.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Carnaval in Santa Maria Iztlahuacán, Ixtapalapa


Santa Maria Iztlahuacán is a small rural town that has been swallowed up by Mexico City. I had the honor of being invited to celebrate carnaval with the extended family of friends there, and it was a treat indeed. After traveling to the end of the subway line, a thirty-minute bus ride and a ten-minute walk, I found Nora, a coworker at CrediComun. Her boyfriend Raimundo has a huge extended family that makes up one of the main components of the week-long celebration.

This used to be a lake, and everybody hunted ducks. They are very proud of their heritage, though not everyone appreciates the gunshots. Having one go off right next to your head is a bit unnerving to say the least.

I was happy to see Obama was able to make it to the celebration...



Saturday, March 12, 2011

Carnival in Yautepec, Morelos

Las Viudas -- The Widows
CrediComun manager Luis is irresistible
More viudas arrived to help out...
And poor Luis was miserable!

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Water from the Sky

My flatmates dragged me to see Rango, a cartoon about the lack of water in the west. Sebastian is two years old, and made it about halfway through the movie, then his Grandmother took him out into the mall. I haven't seen a cartoon movie since The Little Mermaid, when Kareena was seven. She turns twenty-seven this week.

We found Elena and Sebastian in the mall. He was playing with a boy about his age. He cried when he had to give the little boy's car back. His mother bundled him in a jacket, cap and hood, and just before leaving the building, he reached for me. "You want me to carry you?" I asked in Spanish. "DA!" he shouted in baby-speak.

I was surprised that it was raining. In my six weeks here, I think I've seen a few drops, but that might not have been rain. This was rain -- not heavy at all, but enough to be sure it wasn't someone siptting from six floors up.

Sebastian got a huge grin on his face and threw his arms out as in praise. He was genuinely elated the five minutes it took us to find a cab. Inside the cab, I put the window down a few inches so he could put his hand out. Back inside the apartment building, he wanted to go right back outside for more, and I took him out on the sidewalk for an encore performance of gently falling water.

I'm not sure which of us enjoyed it more.

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Office Mates

Best office mates ever. Nora arrived the day before I did, as the new Kiva Coordinator. Pily is moving on to the "Area Social" (say it in Spanish!) but will stay with Kiva another month or so training the novata. We're always a threesome for lunch, pura solidaridad! The best part? They teach me chilango slang. No manches, güey!